The Community Board

Organic Dining Across America: Boulder

  • November 6, 20085:44 am PST
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Low Impact Living has crisscrossed the country reviewing organic restaurants in a myriad of cities, from food lover's havens like New York and San Francisco to food lover's haystacks like Los Angeles and Chicago.  Now we're turning our sights onto some of the smaller organic-friendly enclaves of the US, like Boulder.


Boulder is a town of just over 100,000 people and it is nestled
amidst the pristine beauty of the Rocky Mountains. Set in the middle of
staunchly conservative Colorado, this uber-liberal little city is
appropriately referred to as the "Boulder Bubble." Though some visiting
Coloradoans may want to debate Boulderites on their politics, very few
feel a need to debate these folks on food. The warmth of the high
desert climate allows for an impressive array of fresh locally grown
produce, and the numerous organic growers at the Boulder farmer's
market keep the city's chefs flush with delectable raw materials.  Let
the feeding begin…


Downstairs At The KitchenThe Kitchen


The Kitchen is the most stellar example of organic dining in
Boulder, bar none. The elegantly minimal decor lends a blank canvas to
the flawless ingredients-driven cuisine of Chef Hugo Matheson. Hugo cut
his chops with Ruth Rogers of The River Cafe in London, the same mentor
that turned out such greats as April Bloomfield of The Spotted Pig and
"the naked chef" himself, Jamie Oliver.  Matheson's River Cafe training
shows; he showcases the freshest, most interesting locally-sourced
produce and meats possible in recipes that both excite and delight. 
Dishes here reflect the moment of the season perfectly, from the Roast
Duck Breast with Colorado Peaches, Glazed Carrots, and Bok Choy to the
Hand Rolled Gnocchi with Munson Farm Corn and Cure Farm Tomatoes.


My apologies to teatotalers, wine is a key ingredient to the dining
mojo of The Kitchen. The sommeliers here encompass two characteristics
rarely found together in the wine business: solid knowledge and a
complete lack of pretension. Enjoy this rare phenomena and engage staff
oenophiles Ray, Karim or Erin in your wine selection process; you will
be delighted at their expertise and warmth, as well as their respect
for your indicated budget. Trust me.


Whether you consult the pages of Zagat Survey and Fodor's, or simply
the sage advice of any Boulder-bred foodie, The Kitchen should be your
first order of business in the "Bubble."


Roasted Tempeh at Sunflower Organic DiningSunflower Organic Dining


Once you've got The Kitchen under your belt (literally), you must
make a beeline to Sunflower. The food here is delicious, the juice bar
is exceptional, and the wine list features over 45 organic and
biodynamic offerings. (Might I recommend the Marcel Deiss Pinot Blanc
or the sparkling rose by Nicolas Feuillate…tres delicieux.) The staff
at Sunflower is well versed on the menu and very friendly. Owners Jef
and Michele Forsberg are committed to serving the best quality fish,
meat and poultry available, much of which is local and almost all of
which is organic. Sunflower also presents local artists on their walls
and special dining events
each month. What Sunflower's menu may lack in innovation, it makes up
for with food that is consistently tasty and an atmosphere that lends
itself to lingering.


Vodka 14 Martini at Leaf RestaurantLeaf Restaurant


Leaf Restaurant's organic vegetarian menu is all over the
map…literally. Lunch here could range from Korean Bi Bim Bop to
Jamaican Jerk Tempeh to Vegan French Toast. At dinner you can start
with a Mediterranean Plate, cross over to the Oaxacan Mole, and finish
with Creme Brulee; though you might be full, you could consider
yourself worldly by the time the check comes. (Maybe Sarah Palin should
dine here.) Though the menu at Leaf is meat-free, it doesn't feel like
it. Hearty dishes like the BBQ Seitan with Garlic Mashed Potatoes and
the Roasted Vegetable Phyllo Purse with Wild rice, Truffled Sweet
Potato Puree, and Hazel Dell Mushroom Port Reduction satisfy herbivores
and carnivores alike, making this the ultimate place to convince your
Dad to cross over to a vegetarian lifestyle…just kidding, but it is a
good place for vegetarians and meat eaters to dine together in culinary
accord. Leaf has a great list of affordable, sustainably-grown wines
and they even offer a couple of biodynamic sakes. Or, you can keep it
local and try one of Leaf's house cocktails spiked with Boulder's very
own organic "Vodka 14." It's always fun to justify consumption of
libations by "supporting the local economy."


This short list can get you started on organic dining in Boulder,
though make sure to visit the local farmer's market to whip up a meal
on your own. The Boulder Farmer's Market is one of the very best in the
country by far, and should not be missed!