GOOD

Heather Corcoran

Food

Eating Pig Intestine Pudding (And It’s Vegan Alternative) In The Mid-Atlantic

“Right there on the package, it’ll say: pork back, pig hearts, pig liver—there might even be hooves in there”

Sandwiched between New England and the South, the mid-Atlantic states can sometimes feel like the East Coast’s no-man’s land. But the area, which spans from Virginia to Pennsylvania (and even to New York by some measures), has a proud culinary tradition that it has exported to the rest of the United States and beyond. There are Philly cheesesteaks, water ice (aka Italian ice), soft pretzels, Chesapeake crab cakes, snapper soup—but one Amish-inspired dish has managed to stay local, thanks to an unpalatability matched only by its popularity: scrapple.

Technically a meat pudding (though no one who eats it would ever call it that), scrapple is sold in plastic-wrapped packages with ingredient lists that read like the most undesirable parts of a pig—hearts, liver, skin, and (some claim) even hooves—blended with cornmeal or some other pasty carbohydrate. It can be found in sliced form at every diner from D.C. to Center City Philadelphia to the heart of Amish country, and in bricks at grocery stores along the way. The late food critic Josh Ozersky famously professed his love, the now-defunct MidAtlantic Wine and Food Festival once hosted a Scrapplegasm event, and my own dad eats it with gusto (and eggs).

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