Egypt’s televised presidential debate earlier this month, widely lauded as an indicator of democracy’s triumph in the region, was delayed when one candidate was reportedly caught in traffic. On Twitter, CNN correspondent Ben Wedeman offered one of the night’s most winning observations: “No matter who is running [for president], #cairotraffic always wins.”

For those who haven’t been to Cairo, traffic may seem like a trifle. But in a sprawling megalopolis with a population approaching 20 million, residents schedule everything from workdays to weddings around traffic jams that stretch for miles and ensnare drivers for hours at a time.