Restaurant reviewers often claim their craft is an art, but is it also the shortcut to undying prose?
"Poets alone are sure of immortality; they are the truest diviners of nature."
So wrote (poet) Edward Bulwer-Lytton, whose legacy does indeed include the classic opening line, "It was a dark and stormy night." But food writers who aspire to a similar longevity need no longer torment themselves counting syllables or assessing assonance. The secret to "a small measure of permanence" according to Ralph Gardner Jr. writing in today's Washington Post, is to write a positive restaurant review in a "respected newspaper or magazine"—although, he adds, "my hunch is that any publication will do."