At 10 o’clock in the morning last month, Chef Daniel Garwood’s phone started ringing. Congratulations came through the other end of the line: he had just been named a James Beard Award Semifinalist for Emerging Chef for his work at ACRU in New York’s West Village, where he is Executive Chef. At just 30, Garwood moved to the U.S. under three years ago, having worked in high-end, award-winning kitchens around the world. ACRU’s inventive menu features Garwood’s influences from his native Australia as well as Korea, Scandinavia, Europe, and the U.S., all with a bent toward sustainability–it is, for example, one of the few places in the U.S. to use dairy cow meat, and a majority of menu ingredients are locally sourced.
Accolades like the Semifinalist designation from the James Beard Awards, among the most distinguished awards in the U.S. for culinary arts and media, are important to so many chefs. For Garwood it’s also important because of his dedication to mental health advocacy in the hospitality industry. “I thought if I move to the U.S. and I keep working hard, do get accolades and a bit of prestige, that maybe that could add to how I talk about mental health,” he said. “If you are respected and you do have prestige, I think it’s quite easier to talk about these things, to hit a wider audience.”
As discussions about mental health expand across culture, the hospitality industry has become no exception, particularly during and after the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s an industry known for its long, sometimes uncertain hours, physically taxing work, and constant pressure. Garwood knows it all well. “A lot of the jobs I’ve worked at, especially early in my career, were about 110 hours a week, or something like, 16-18 hour days, and you’re just tired,” he says. Leaving a job like that, even for a short while, can sometimes prove just as difficult. Working those hours and then stopping makes some people feel unbalanced. “When you’re in such a high, intense environment, and then you come off, a lot of these guys end up turning to alcohol, drugs, or anything, just to calm them down or stop them or keep going,” he says. He’s witnessed it first hand, having lost friends in the industry to suicide.
One of the ways Garwood sought to bring awareness to mental health with food was through his pop-up dinner series Oralis. First created in Seoul, South Korea in February 2021, it also became the book Oralis: A Conversation on Food and Mental Health later that year, both created with his wife Sooky An. Having seen suicides double in Seoul while working there, Garwood created the series in partnership with suicide prevention service and crisis support network LifeLine Korea.
Each course of the meal was prepared to reflect a different aspect of mental health. For example, a Camouflage Tart snack (“Crisps made from incredible Korean herbs and spices: dangui, nuruk powder, leek ash, and anise hyssop (Korean mint) hiding away in the moss encasing an emulsion from fermented pea paste, pickles from last season, and mackerel from Jeju,” as chronicled in Oralis) opened the dinner, to discuss presenting a persona that’s the opposite of one’s true feelings and thereby causing oneself pain. A dish called “Enter the Void,” followed. Served in a vertical dish, it featured squid, hot sauce, clams, and scallop custard and represented the need to engage with people on a deeper level.
The pop-up was received, by Garwood’s own description, as controversial and intense, but it didn’t stop him from wanting to blend food and mental health in the future. The accolades, he says, may help. Now, at ACRU, he does it on a person-to-person level with his staff and hopes to re-engage with it on a menu in the future. With ACRU General Manager Ambrose Chiang, who is also Australian, Garwood hopes to bring what he calls an Australian-inspired family culture to the restaurant. “Even if you’ve got your neighbor, he’s your mate; if something’s gonna happen, you’re gonna take care of him, you’re gonna help him out because he’s your mate,” he says. “We’re all essentially mates here. I think that builds a really strong culture, because then you always want to help each other work together. There’s no difference between front of house and back of house because they’re your mate.”
It’s important to Garwood to check in regularly with his staff, have conversations about goals and happiness. “I always ask them, pull them aside. Are you okay? Are you happy? It’s totally fine not to be if someone says they’re not. I’m gonna ask why. Just talk me through it. [I] try and keep it as casual as possible and not this really intense thing. As long as we keep doing that, that’s something,” he says. He remembers the feeling of working in Denmark, where there’s a dedication to the concept of hygge, of feeling cozy and comfortable–it’s something he wants for his staff as well. “I think that’s an important thing to translate here and into other workplaces…as long as people keep talking, I can get the information to see if they’re okay, at least make sure they’re all right.”
It’s also important to Garwood that the staff at ACRU have not just family meal together, but a communal experience. “A lot of restaurants will just set a buffet or set something like that. We kind of force a situation where we’ll pull all the tables and everything together, and then we pull a lot of effort into making really nice meals, [nice] plates, and everything,” he says. They use the same dishes and cutlery the restaurant’s guests use. “Essentially, this is your home, this is our culture here. You want this to feel like you’re at a mate’s place, or you have mates over at your place. I think it’s really important to sit there, share and discuss and really relax.”
Garwood wants to show there’s another way hospitality can work and hopes other restaurants catch on. “I also pretty firmly believe in, just lead by example,” he says. “We’ll just keep doing our thing here.”
