We arrive at Yolcan’s Chef Semillas restaurant floating on a shimmering canal rowing a humble trajinera, a flat-bottomed boat with improvised oars typical of Xochimilco’s marshy canals. Crunching into the abundance of Brazilian water lilies, we skitter onto the chinampa, a traditional “floating island” built by pre-Colombian civilizations who terraformed a home on the sprawling system of mountain lakes that would later transform into the Mexico City megalopolis.
Under the thatched palm roofs typical of palapas, a team led by chef Joaquin Cardoso — a rising star of the next generation of Mexico City culinary celebrities — sets out picnic tables and wine glasses. Cooks in matching uniforms spatchcock chickens over clay comal griddles. In the reeds, a woman snaps pictures of a mezcal bottle on her cell phone to post to Instagram.
On Sunday afternoon, the Butte County Sheriff’s Department took to Facebook to spread word residents of Oroville, California, that officials “are anticipating a failure of the Auxiliary Spillway at Oroville Dam within the next 60 minutes.” The heaviest rains the area had seen in years caused water levels to rise, putting an unanticipated strain on a structure that’s been considered a safety issue for the past 12 years.